Visiting Milan in winter: ultimate guide from a local (2024)

If you’re wondering if it’s worth visiting Milan in winter, you’re in the right place!

As someone who’s spent 29 winters here, I’m here to let you in on a little secret—Milan in winter is amazing.

In this post you’ll find all the tips you need to make the most of your winter trip: what to expect from the weather, what to wear and what you absolutely can’t miss—like Christmas markets, the Last Supper, day trips skiing in the Alps and seasonal food like Panettone!

It truly is a magical time to visit, let me show you exactly why it’s worth visiting in winter and why you’ll love it, too!

Is it worth going to Milan in winter? 

Absolutely! It’s a fantastic time to visit, and trust me, you’ll have a wonderful experience. 

The city is quieter, more affordable, and getting tickets to see The Last Supper is so much easier. There are way less tourists than in summer, so you’ll also experience a more authentic side of Milan. 

Sure, the sky’s a bit grayer and it can be cold (sometimes even snowy!), but honestly, that just adds to the atmosphere, especially around Christmas.

My favorite months are December and early January. Milan goes into full festive mode and some of my best memories are from this time of year, like admiring the giant Christmas tree in Piazza del Duomo, ice skating at those cute rinks around the city, warming up with a hot chocolate at Café Marchesi (perfect for a cozy date if you ask me), and wandering through Christmas markets with friends on Saturday evenings. 

It’s such a romantic, cozy season, and I love how Milan transforms during the holidays!

Just two things to keep in mind: the days are shorter so some attractions close earlier, but the city is even more gorgeous in the evenings in winter, and it can get cold, so pack accordingly. I have a few tips down here. 

Oh, and don’t forget that winter is the perfect time for a skiing day trip to the Alps!

Winter weather in Milan

I’ll be honest, the weather isn’t exactly fabulous in Milan in Winter. It’s usually pretty cold and the sky tends to stay gray. 

There’s even a bit of a running joke in Italy that Milan is the city of fog in winter, but I promise, it’s really not that bad!

You might get some rain but it’s usually not too much, and if you’re lucky, you could even see snow, which makes the city feel magical. In my experience October and November tend to be rainier than December and January, so don’t worry about it too much.

The coldest months are definitely January and February, so pack accordingly! 

Here’s a quick rundown of average temperatures and daylight hours:

• December: 2°C to 8°C (36°F to 46°F), 9 hours of daylight
• January: 2°C to 7°C (36°F to 45°F), 9 hours of daylight
• February: 3°C to 10°C (37°F to 50°F), 10.5 hours of daylight
• March: 7°C to 15°C (45°F to 59°F), 12 hours of daylight

Keep in mind that these are averages. In reality, between December and January, it’s not unusual for temperatures to hover around 0°C during the day, and they can even drop below freezing. 

Winter holidays in Milan

One of the things I love about winter is that it’s packed with holidays and festivities!

Sant’Ambrogio (December 7th) 

Sant’Ambrogio is one of the biggest celebrations for us. It honors our patron saint, Saint Ambrose (Sant’Ambrogio), Milan’s bishop in the 4th century.

The city is deeply connected to him, there’s a famous basilica in his name and Milan also uses its own special liturgy called the Ambrosian Rite, different from anywhere else in the world!

Sant’Ambrogio is a really big festivity for the city. Schools and offices close, and the streets are filled with festive markets and events. The most famous one is the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market, where you’ll find all kinds of crafts and treats. 

The official opening of La Scala’s opera season happens on this day too, which is the event of the year for opera and theater fans.

This is also when Milan officially kicks off the Christmas season, and many milanesi (Milan locals) start putting up their Christmas trees. I have never put up my Christmas tree before Sant’Ambrogio!

Christmas (December 25th) and New Year’s Eve (December 31st)

Christmas and New Year’s Eve in Milan are two major celebrations—pretty obvious, right? But even though they’re well-known, they still have their own Milanese flair that makes them special.

On Christmas Eve, one of the most beautiful traditions is attending Midnight Mass at the Duomo. The service usually starts at 11:30 PM, but I recommend getting there early if you want a seat. The cathedral looks absolutely stunning at night, and there’s something magical about celebrating Christmas in such an iconic place.

As for New Year’s Eve, Milan offers plenty of ways to welcome the new year. 

You can go big and glamorous with a night at La Scala (in 2025 they’ll be performing The Nutcracker ballet, which is perfect for the season) or enjoy a traditional cenone (literally “a big dinner”) at one of the city’s many restaurants, join a party to celebrate with locals or watch the fireworks in Piazza del Duomo.

What’s great is that Milan’s Christmas vibe doesn’t just last one day. 

Festivities kick off with Sant’Ambrogio on December 7th and run all the way until Epifania (January 6th), so even if you’re not in the city on the 25th, you’ll still soak up all the holiday magic.

Epifania (January 6th)

Epifania marks the end of the Christmas season in Italy and holds a special place in the hearts of many, especially kids. 

In Christian tradition, it commemorates the visit of the Three Wise Men to baby Jesus and here in Milan it’s also tied to a local tradition: the Three Wise Men parade, which starts at the Duomo and ends at the Basilica of Sant’Eustorgio. 

The connection between Sant’Eustorgio and the Wise Men runs deep—legend has it their relics are kept here, for this reason the basilica’s bell tower features a star instead of the usual cross, symbolizing the one they followed to Bethlehem.

For kids, though, Epifania means one thing: the Befana! 

She is an old woman who flies on her broomstick and visits homes the night between January 5th and 6th to deliver small gifts and candy to well-behaved children, or sugar “coal” for those who’ve been a little naughty. 

Stockings are hung by the chimney or windows and by morning they’re filled with surprises. It’s a sweet, playful way to wrap up the holiday season and a beloved tradition throughout Italy!

Ambrosian Carnival (February)

In Milan, Carnival comes a little later than the rest of Italy, because of the Ambrosian rite, which is unique to Milan. 

As with many local traditions, there are several legends behind the reason. 

One of the most famous ones attributes the delay to Saint Ambrose himself. He was away from Milan during the usual Carnival time and the locals, who couldn’t imagine celebrating without their beloved bishop, decided to wait until he returned to start the party. 

We don’t know if it’s a historical fact or just a legend, but Milan still sticks to this custom.

During Carnival, don’t miss the big parade on Saturday. You’ll see masks, costumes, and an infectious festive spirit everywhere. Most importantly, I recommend trying my favorite sweets of the season: chiacchiere, crispy ribbons of fried dough sprinkled with powdered sugar. They’re so good!

What to do in Milan in winter

Enjoy the magic of Christmas in Milan

Christmas in Milan is an absolute dream and one of my favorite times of the year. I love Christmas, and Milan really takes it seriously! 

The whole city transforms into a winter wonderland, and there’s so much to see and do to enjoy the festive spirit.

• Christmas trees
  In 2023, Milan had 22 trees 🎄 around the city, but the most important one is always the giant tree in Piazza del Duomo. Another personal favorite is the one in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
• Christmas lights 
  They are literally everywhere! The streets are draped in twinkling displays and I have to say, I’m a big fan. They make evening strolls feel so magical!
• Christmas markets 
  The main Christmas market is around the Duomo, where you’ll find those classic wooden booths filled with souvenirs, gifts, and seasonal food and drinks (hello, mulled wine and roasted chestnuts!).
  Another must-visit is the Fiera degli Oh Bej! Oh Bej! near Castello Sforzesco. This market runs from December 7th to 10th and is a true local tradition since December 7th marks the official start of the Christmas season in Milan. 
• Christmas villages 
  The largest one in the city center is at Giardini Montanelli near Porta Venezia, complete with a gorgeous ice skating rink and, of course, Santa’s House.
  
  If you want to go even bigger, head just outside Milan to Sesto San Giovanni’s Carroponte. It’s easily accessible by metro and totally worth the trip (around 20-30 from the Duomo).
  
  This massive village is like stepping into a Christmas fairy tale. It’s pure magic for kids everyone! 
  
  There’s Santa’s House, a toy factory with busy elves, a post office where kids can write their letters, plus musicals, theater performances, circus acts, and a huge ice rink all lit up with thousands of Christmas lights. 
• Ice Skating 
  Milan has several ice rinks around the city during the Christmas season. Some are smaller and just for kids, while others welcome adults too. A few popular spots include the big Christmas village at Giardini Indro Montanelli, Central Station and Piazza San Babila.
  
  A personal favorite of mine, though, is the rink at Bagni Misteriosi. It’s a beautiful 1930s swimming pool complex that completely transforms around Christmas. The space feels like a charming mountain village, complete with a Christmas market, an ice rink, and a romantic area with twinkling lights where you can enjoy an aperitivo.
  
  What makes this place really special, and what sets it apart from any other ice rink I’ve seen, is that the ice rink is suspended over the water of the main outdoor pool!

See a performance at La Scala theatre 

December 7th, Sant’Ambrogio, marks the opening of the Teatro alla Scala season, known as the Prima della Scala. 

This date has been reserved since 1951 for the first opera of the season, and it’s one of the most elegant and exclusive events in the city (read: crazy expensive! This year some tickets were around €3,200).

Since it’s such an exclusive event, there’s a recent tradition called Prima Diffusa that lets everyone in Milan enjoy the magic of La Scala’s opening night. The opera is broadcast live on huge screens across the city, for example in Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, so both locals and tourists can watch the performance for free.

If you actually want to experience a performance at La Scala, I’d recommend going any other night than opening night. From December 18th 2024 to January 12th 2025 you can catch The Nutcracker, which is the perfect ballet for the winter season!

Relax at Milan’s most incredible spa: QC Terme 

QC Terme Milano is the perfect way to warm up on Milan’s coldest days. 

It’s a luxury wellness and spa center with both indoor and outdoor areas that feels like a hidden retreat. The outdoor pools are especially magical, surrounded by the ancient 16th-century Spanish walls, making you forget you’re actually in the heart of the city.

There’s even an old tram that has been converted to a bio-sauna! How cool is that? 

One of my favorite things to do in the entire city is Aperiterme, QC Terme’s unique twist on the classic Milanese aperitivo. From 5 to 8 PM, you can enjoy snacks and gourmet small bites with a glass of wine, all while lounging in your bathrobe! 

It’s included with your entrance ticket, and honestly, there’s nothing quite like sipping a drink, snacking, and moving between pools while watching the sunset over the historic walls.

I’ve been there several times, and it’s such an elegant, romantic, and super relaxing experience. 

Tour the city without the crowds 

Winter is the perfect time to explore Milan without being overwhelmed by the usual crowds. 

Just keep in mind that there are lots of locals going shopping for gifts during the weekends around christmas, so you might find crowds in the busiest shopping streets like Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, Via Torino or Corso Buenos Aires. The rest of the city is usually calmer.  

Overall you’ll find it much easier to enjoy the city’s highlights. Here are my top 5 things to see and do in Milan during winter:

1. Milan Duomo

A majestic gothic cathedral with incredible views from the rooftop terraces. You’ll find stunning views over the city and will be able to admire the architecture up close (the Duomo is decorated with over 3400 statues, with many unusual ones like frogs, pigeons, tennis rackets, a boxing team and a statue that inspired the statue of liberty itself) with way fewer people around than, say, summer. It’s a great spot to admire the giant christmas tree in Piazza del Duomo.

2. Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II

An iconic shopping gallery which is absolutely magical during the holidays, with festive lights, decorations and a beautiful christmas tree.

3. Castello Sforzesco

A beautiful castle in the heart of the city, you can wander around the grounds for free because they connect Piazza Cairoli (close to Duomo) to Parco Sempione, the biggest park in the city.

4. Brera

Milan’s art district, with charming cobblestone streets, cute shops, cozy cafes and the Pinacoteca di Brera, home to amazing Italian art masterpieces. I especially love it at christmas because it’s super romantic and decorated with twinkling lights.

5. The Last Supper

The world famous artwork by Leonardo Da Vinci that captures Jesus’ last meal with his disciples. You can read this article if you’re wondering if it’s worth visiting the Last Supper.

It’s easier to book in winter, but you should still reserve well in advance!

Try local seasonal cuisine 

I know some people say Milan’s food isn’t great, but believe me when I say it’s amazing, especially in winter! Food is a big deal in Italy, so I’ll go into details about a few local must-try dishes.

Panettone

Let’s start with Panettone, a sweet bread-like treat that is the Milanese Christmas classic. It’s fluffy and filled with candied fruits and raisins (or chocolate, which is a must, in my opinion!). 

The eternal debate? Panettone vs Pandoro. Pandoro is originally from Verona and is quite similar (someone will hate me for saying this!) but it’s simpler, without candied fruits, shaped like an 8 points star, and dusted with powdered sugar. I recommend trying both and picking your favorite!

Here are my top picks for the best panettone in Milan:

• Pasticceria Cova: one of the oldest and best bakeries in the city, in via Monte Napoleone. It was founded in 1817 as a literary café and was actually a favorite of Giuseppe Verdi! You will find traditional panettone here.
• Pavè: they have a few locations, but my go-to is in Via Casati. Their panettone is delicious and they offer several variations beyond the classic, like chocolate, coffee, sour cherry, pistachio and tonka bean. It’s also a perfect spot for breakfast!
• Longoni: another fantastic spot for traditional panettone, with beautifully decorated boxes—perfect for souvenirs or Christmas gifts! There are several locations in the city: one is close to Santa Maria delle Grazie, perfect if you’re there to see the Last Supper, another good location is in Porta Romana.

If you’re vegan or lactose intolerant like me, don’t worry! You can enjoy delicious panettone at these spots: Vergani (the chocolate one is amazing!), Pavè, Dolci Namura, Rose by Mary.

Cotechino

If you’re here for New Year’s Eve, cotechino (a pork sausage) with lentils is a tradition and it’s said eating it will bring good luck. I’m not actually a fan of cotechino, but lentils are always a must for me.

Risotto alla Milanese and Ossobuco 

A creamy saffron risotto that locals often call risotto giallo, “yellow risotto,” and my absolute favorite local dish. 

It’s usually paired with Ossobuco (literally bone with a hole): veal shanks braised with vegetables, tomato sauce and wine. The bone marrow makes it rich and delicious.

Cotoletta alla Milanese

A crispy veal cutlet, breaded and fried in butter, super tender inside.

There are two main types: the thicker cut, which is often served with the bone, and the thinner version, known as “orecchia di elefante” (literally “elephant’s ear”), where the meat is pounded out very wide and thin. 

Both are delicious, but the thinner one is my personal favorite because it’s super crispy and lighter and a beloved childhood memory!

Cassoeula

A hearty winter stew with pork and cabbage. Not a light dish, but definitely a traditional one!

Where to eat traditional dishes in Milan

My best recommendation for an unforgettable dining experience if you want to try milanese and lombardian cuisine is a restaurant called Al Garghet. 

This retro gem is a true favorite among locals, especially during winter! 

The atmosphere here is pure magic: a crackling fireplace, festive Christmas decorations, and those cozy red tablecloths that make the place feel so warm and inviting. It’s a trattoria, but with an elegant and refined twist.

The restaurant is known for serving traditional Milanese dishes, and their cutlet is one of the best in the city (the wide and thin version!). Just be sure to request it when you make your reservation!

They also offer vegetarian and gluten free options, you can read the menu here.

Al Garghet has been a Milan institution for over 30 years, and it’s become a tradition for locals to dine here during Christmastime. It’s an authentic old Milan experience, and I’m sure you’ll love it as much as I do!

Just make sure to book well in advance, as weekend evenings often sell out weeks ahead because dining here during the holiday season is such a huge tradition!

The best day trips from Milan in winter 

Ski in the alps 

One of the absolute best day trips from Milan is skiing in the alps. If you’re planning it as a day trip, renting a car is the easiest way to get there. 

Here are my top 3 skiing spots, all within 2.5 hours from Milan and perfect for both beginners and experts. 

What makes these ski spots even more special is that they’re located on the three highest mountains in Italy: Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc, the highest in the Alps at 4.806 m), Monte Rosa (4.634 m), and Monte Cervino (Matterhorn, 4.478 m):

1. Cervinia: it’s located at the foot of the Matterhorn and is one of the most prestigious ski resorts in the world. It’s also the highest ski resort in the Alps, with the highest point at 3.883 m. There are also slopes connecting Cervinia to Zermatt in  Switzerland, so you can ski in two countries in one day!
2. Monte Rosa: you can ski on more than 180 km of slopes across three connected valleys—Alagna, Gressoney, and Champoluc, all equally beautiful!
3. Courmayeur: Courmayeur sits at the foot of Mont Blanc. It’s famous for its great mix of slopes and its lively après-ski scene, perfect for unwinding with breathtaking views.

Visit Switzerland with the Bernina express

The Bernina express is a lovely red train that travels from Tirano, Italy, to St. Moritz, Switzerland, offering one of the most scenic journeys through the Swiss Alps. 

It’s the highest railway in the Alps, reaching 2,256 meters, and takes you along a UNESCO World Heritage route, passing glaciers, snow-capped peaks, and charming villages.

The best way to experience it as a day trip is with a tour, because the train doesn’t actually leave from Milan. 

You’ll be taken to Tirano by bus, hop on the train, and after soaking in those breathtaking views, you’ll arrive in St. Moritz with time to explore around. Then, it’s a cozy bus ride back to Milan. 

What to wear in Milan in winter 

Milan is definitely cold in winter, so make sure you pack clothes that allow you to layer up depending on the weather. Heating is always pretty warm, so you’ll want to remove some layers when you’re indoors. 

Here’s what I usually do: I wear a baselayer from Uniqlo’s Heattech range, which is super light but warm, with a wool or cashmere jumper on top. A good thermal baselayer avoids the need for bulky sweaters, which I hate wearing! It’s perfect for traveling too, since you can pack lighter without sacrificing warmth.

For outerwear, I alternate between a thin down jacket with a waterproof jacket on top and a long wool coat like a loden (with or without the down jacket). As you can see, layers are key! 

You’ll be spending plenty of time outside, so definitely pack a good jacket, an umbrella, and comfortable waterproof shoes, especially if you’re planning a day trip to the Alps.

Don’t forget the essentials: gloves, a scarf, and a beanie. Trust me, you’ll thank me later!

FAQs

Is December a good time to visit Milan?

Absolutely! 

Milan can be cold in winter, but the festive atmosphere is incredible and the city looks gorgeous over Christmas!

Yes, you’ll have fewer hours of daylight and might get some rainy weather, but you’ll also find fewer crowds than in summer, and Milan feels absolutely magical this time of year.

Does Milan get snow?

Yes, occasionally. 

It used to snow more often in the past, but in recent years it’s become quite rare to see snow covering the whole city. When it does happen, though, Milan is so beautiful and I love it!

How many days to visit Milan? 

Two days is ideal for exploring the city highlights, trying local food and doing some shopping without feeling rushed. If you have an extra day or two, you can mix in some day trips. My favorite one is definitely visiting the Alps!

If you’re short on time, don’t worry, you can still see the highlights in a day. I’d recommend following this Milan in one day itinerary.

What to do in Milan when it rains?

If it rains or gets too cold, I highly recommend spending a few hours in one of Milan’s many museums. My favorites are Museo del Novecento and the Triennale Design Museum.
For more tips, check out my one day guide to Milan or my list of the best free things to do in Milan if you’re on a budget and need ideas! 

This winter in Milan, there’s also a big new interactive exhibition from Tim Burton called “Labyrinth”. It will open on December 12 and run until March 3rd. I can’t wait to visit!

Is Milan safe?

Yes, it is! The most common crime involving tourists is pickpocketing, especially in busy areas like public transport and popular attractions.

You can read my detailed analysis about safety in Milan but long story short, if you take the same precautions you would have in any big city in the world, you will have no problems.

How to get to and around Milan?

In the city center you can walk everywhere, many streets are pedestrian only. 

The city is very well connected thanks to its public transportation system with trams, buses and metro efficiently connecting all parts of the city. Don’t worry about the tickets, you can just tap your card or phone wallet and the lowest fare possible for the entire day will be charged the following day (just make sure to always use the same card!). 

If you want to go to the alps as a day trip, I’d strongly recommend renting a car and driving there. It’s the fastest way and you wouldn’t want to lose time on public transport. Avoid using the car to move inside Milan though, there often lots of traffic and public transport or services with rent scooters are much more efficient.

Milan is also very well connected with its 3 airports:

• Linate: the closest one, you can get to the city center with the metro line M4. 
• Malpesa: there’s a direct train called Malpensa express that connects the airport and the city center in around 35 minutes.
• Milan Bergamo (Orio al Serio): about 1 hour by bus with many departures hourly.

Final Thoughts on Milan in winter

Milan in winter is definitely worth visiting! It’s a beautiful destination for a long weekend, especially over Christmas, when the city is filled with Christmas markets, ice rinks, and festive decorations everywhere. 

You’ll enjoy fewer crowds, and it’s the perfect time to try seasonal treats like panettone, pandoro, and risotto alla Milanese. 

Winter is also fantastic for day trips, whether you’re skiing in the Alps or taking the panoramic Bernina Express to St. Moritz. 

I’m sure you’ll have a wonderful time exploring Milan and its winter magic!